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Vat Car Part 3 |
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Parts List [99] Staves 2" X
6" X 4' 6" |
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Gluing on the Staves
Drawing After the staves are cut to length, lightly
file or sand the two inside corners so the staves fit together snugly.
Photo 1 Glue the first stave on the PVC with CA glue and use a square to make sure it is upright. Let this dry for fifteen minutes. This is the anchor and the remainder of the staves glue against this one. Glue on several staves with Duco Cement and check with the square. If the staves don't match the vertical lines perfectly it is fine, just make sure they are upright. Push them together to take out any gaps. Pushing too hard will cause them to pop off. Keep gluing and pushing the staves together until the last one is installed. The last space may be smaller than a stave--either put the stave on its edge or trim it down to fit. Run a bead of glue around the top and bottom of the vat to glue the ends of the staves to the PVC. Let the glue dry about an hour and trim the last stave if necessary. Test fit the vats and the roof to the car. If the vats are too tall, lay them on a piece of 120 sandpaper on a flat surface and lightly sand; check the fit and sand as necessary. The model is designed to allow for imperfections in the top of the vats. The distance from the floor to bottom edge of the roof side fascia is 4' 3". The bands have to be located within in this range in order to be seen. Do not glue the vats or the roof on yet. Remove the roof and vats. |
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Bands
Photo 2 Lightly sand the staves to remove any edges which maybe protruding. Make a marking jig from a piece of basswood sheet. From the bottom of the sheet measure upward and make a mark at 3", 1 1/2', 2 3/4', and 4'. Use a razor blade to cut a notch in the wood at these points and then file out the notches so a pencil lead will fit. Mark around the vat. These marks are at the bottom edge of the bands. Start the tape on the marks and only pull tight enough to keep it straight. Pulling any tighter can cause the tape to distort. If the tape is applied with a lot of tension it might pull loose in the future. Once the starting point is reached, unroll it further, cut with scissors and adhere it so it overlaps the starting end. If the tape is adhered and then cut with a razor blade, it will pull away at the cut and leave a gap. Tape can be pushed tight against the staves. |
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Roof Fascia & Eaves
Photo 3 To make the peak on the end fascia, lay the
piece horizontal and make a center mark on the top.
Measure down each side 6 HO scale inches and make a mark.
Connect the side marks with the center mark.
Cut these corners off and file or sand as necessary to fit inside the
roof. Install the end fascia and glue in the eaves. The eaves do not have to fit tight against the fascia but should fit well against the bent. |
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Roof Hatches
Photo 4 Refrigerator ice hatch castings can be used instead of scratchbuilding, but the placement of the lettering boards in Part 4 may hide the hatches. Also, some of these castings are too large for this car and then there is the factor of added expense, and effort to locate the castings. Round the corners of the hatches. Glue the center hatch on the center of the roof, .020 outward from the roof walk. The other two hatches are on 7' centers from the center hatch. Glue the short pieces up against the hatch, and align with the sides of the hatch. Glue the long piece centered over the short piece. |
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Conclusion The next step is to decide on a paint and lettering scheme and to finish up details. |
